Have you ever wondered about the worth of your jewelry?
What do different types of metals mean and how do they relate to each other?
In this article, we will take a quick dive into the qualities and combinations of various metals, helping you understand what to go for and what to avoid when creating a quality collection.
For hundreds of years jewelry constitute an integral part of our lives. Each piece is worn in different ways to symbolize core messages that exude the feeling of elegance, wisdom, personality and prosperity. Past down from generation to the next they become heirlooms that represent the strength of our relationships and the depth of our emotions. Most of all, the right jewelry can make us feel confident and beautiful.
But not all jewelry are the same. The quality of the materials used can differentiate a precious long lasting jewelry from costume jewelry. Materials can simply be divided in two categories.
Precious metals:
These are the valuable rare metals that are used in premium quality jewelry accompanied with quality craftsmanship.
Platinum
Platinum is the rarest metal on the planet. It has a silver-ish white hue. From the platinum group of metals rhodium has the highest hardness and wear resistance. Rhodium is the rarest and most expensive precious metal on earth.
Gold
In its pure form of 24K gold has a strong yellow hue and is soft and malleable. In 24K gold is too soft to be used in jewelry. Because of its nature it is preferred to mix it with another metal making it stronger so it does not get scratched or bent. This process produces the categories of 18K, 14K, 10K and 9K that have a lower percentage of the pure gold and more percentage of other metals. 18K is the perfect balance between strength and purity and is used in fine jewelry. It contains 5% silver and 20% copper. 14K has a mix of 58.3% of pure gold and the rest 41.7% is a mix of other metals that can be copper, zinc etc. Gold of 18K is more precious than 14K and 10K and 9K which contain bigger percentages of other metals.
Silver
The 3rd noble metal after platinum and gold, is a popular metal used in quality jewelry. Silver is also a soft metal thus it is also compared with others to make it stronger. 925 sterling silver has 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper which improves the hardness, luster and brightness of the material. Silver can naturally oxidize over time and give jewelry a unique patina. Many craftsmen often utilize this phenomenon intentionally to achieve gunmetal finishes in their pieces. Through controlled application, silver oxidation process can produce a diverse array of colors, including purples, reds, yellows and total matte black, expanding the creative possibilities in jewelry crafting.This controlled oxidation adds depth and character to the jewelry, showcasing the artful combination of metal and time in the crafting process. On the contrary, when the jewelers aim to prevent natural oxidation in silver jewelry, a common practice involves finishing the piece with a protective coat of platinum or gold, preserving the metal's original luster and shielding it from environmental factors.
All precious jewelry come with a stamp engraved somewhere (not very visible) in the metal part. Most common stamps are 18K,14K,10K, 925 and indicate the quality of the core metal that is bought. You should always check that the stamp is present to be sure what you are buying is a quality piece.
Base metals:
Base metals are inexpensive and widely used in costume jewelry as well as other areas of industrial and commercial applications. As an example, copper can be found in wiring and other electrical equipment due to its high conductivity. Used in mass production, base metals are commonly paired with lesser quality craftsmanship. Most commonly used are stainless steel, copper, brass, titanium and iron.
Stainless steel
A very durable and tarnish resistant metal due to a chromium layer that prevents oxidation. The rigid and inflexible nature of the metal makes it not ideal to work with to produce detailed results. It is often used more in chain designs. In pressure it can still produce dents and scratches. The most commonly used forms 304 and 316L may contain nickel and are non-hypoallergenic.
Copper
Copper is highly durable and can last in daily wear. It has a red-ish hue that turns green over time due to wear. The tarnish can also leave green marks on the skin. It is the only base metal that is good for the skin and has antimicrobial and anti-fungal properties.
Brass
Brass is an alloy of copper mixed with zinc and other metals. Because of the zinc, brass is more durable than copper. Brass gives the same hue as gold so it can be used in a number of decorative purposes. The metals that are used in brass are not hypoallergenic and may be toxic to the skin.
Titanium
A very light metal that drastically reduces the weight of the jewelry. It usually weighs around 1/4 of the traditional precious metals. It is very hard to process due to a high melting point and highly refractive. Titanium metal is also hypoallergenic. Rarely titanium is used in high end jewelry to reduce the weight of a heavy, high volume piece.
Iron
Iron is a lustrous, ductile, malleable silver - gray metal. It is also very easy to oxidize and rust so it is not commonly used. The metal finish quickly starts to turn black. Instead the use of steel which is an alloy of iron and carbon is preferred.
Depending on the source, lesser grade metals can easily be overlooked and compared with other potentially harmful ones such as lead, nickel, cadmium, etc. These metals are toxic, when in contact with the skin may cause various health hazards.
Plating techniques:
One of the most important steps in jewelry creation and the most easily overlooked. Plating essentially is the coating of the core of a jewelry with another metal finishing. Plating techniques are used to protect the base metal against tarnishing and to give high decorative qualities as a cost-effective alternative to solid gold jewelry. Plating techniques can be re-plated on jewelry if they wear over time. There are different types of platings.
Gold Plated or dipped
This is a mainly used category in which a metal base is dipped in gold using the electroplating technique. This provides the metal with a thin layer of gold starting from 0.25 to usually 1 micron. The metal base is usually brass, steel or silver. It is an affordable technique that lasts usually from a month to a year with normal wear.
Gold filled
Gold filled or rolled jewelry are not actually filled with gold like the name suggests. It consists of a core of a base metal such as copper or brass, that is covered in sheets of gold. With a heating process, core and surface materials are bonded together creating a thick layer of gold of around 5% of the jewelry weight. Gold filled jewelry are very resistant to wear and tarnish and can last many years. This technique is usually used in wide simple surfaces while electroplating is used in more intricate pieces to create detailed results.
Gold vermeil
This is the highest standard technique of gold plated jewelry. It comes from the same logic of the gold plating technique but has strong differences. The minimum plating thickness of a gold vermeil has to start from 2.5micron according to international standards, making the plating five times thicker than a basic gold plating. While gold plating mainly coats brass and steel, gold vermeil only coats silver jewelry. The price point is also more expensive because of the core metal but also the significantly bigger quantity of gold. With normal wear gold vermeil jewelry can last many years without wearing the coating.
Rhodium Plated
Having the highest hardness and wear resistance, rhodium is an excellent way to coat silver jewelry. A simple plating can create a strong coat that lasts many years, prevents oxidation and gives a precious silverish - white finishing that can not get easily scratched. The surface of rhodium plated jewelry can effortlessly be distinguished from silver. While rhodium produces a clear, smooth and vivid surface, silver often appears more dull and muted when both compared.
So what is best to look for?
When looking to buy a quality piece that will stay with you forever you should definitely consider a number of factors like the type and quality of the materials as well as the craftsmanship of each piece. Quality jewelry can be distinguished from costume jewelry from their materials that last through time as well as the skill of the details depicted on them. When paired with other factors such as gemstones you should also pay attention to the setting techniques that may vary and add to the final result and last but definitely not least the quality of the gemstones used.
In Aflow we only use gold vermeil and rhodium plated jewelry, paired with hand-set quality natural mineral gemstones. Our jewelry offers the best affordable choice, combining precious material and quality craftsmanship that you can wear everyday on any occasion.
